Rhino Ascents

2011 Climb Schedule - Climb #2

2011-09-04T12:22:00.000-07:00

Mount Saint Helens - Climbing next week!

There is still time to jump onboard this mid-week climb. Although the climbing permits are sold out, they can still be obtained through other means. If you are interested, contact me and visit my Climb Schedule 2011 page.

Sue Nelson celebrates on the Mount St Helens summit in 2006

Success on South Sister

2011-08-14T21:10:00.000-07:00

My first Chemeketan climb of the year is in the books. Our four man team reached the summit of South Sister in perfect conditions.

See my full trip report here: South Sister Trip Report

South Sister Trip Report

2011-08-14T20:45:00.000-07:00

After a year on the shelf, it feels good to be back in the mountains. The fresh air, the smell of alpine flora, the sounds of the various critters -- it's like heaven on earth. All I can say is, "It's about time."

South Sister 10,358'

On August 10th, Aaron Smith, Dylan Petrie, Randy Solansky and I graced the summit of South Sister, the third highest peak in Oregon. For Randy and Dylan, it was their first successful ascent of any mountain. For Aaron, it was his second summit of what he hopes is a successful run towards achieving the Chemeketans "18 Peaks Award." For me, it was confirmation that this ol' body of mine still has some juice left.

Given that the summit is over six miles and 5,000' of elevation from the trailhead, we decided it would be more fun to make this a multi-day climb. We hiked in the afternoon of the first day and set up camp at Moraine Lake. You can't actually camp on the lake. Rather, you choose one of the few designated camping areas ~300' above - and overlooking - the lake. This is a very popular backpacking area, but on this weekday we had the camp to ourselves.

Randy and Dylan from our campsite

The first evening we hiked down to the lake and filtered water, although given the late season snow melt this was an unnecessary precaution. Regardless, there's nothing like the purity and taste of fresh glacier water and after all, it's all part of the experience.

Dylan filters while Broken Top looks on

After finishing dinner and prepping our gear, the four of us played several hands of "Wen's game", a card game that's normally easy to learn but difficult to master. Unfortunately, it didn't take the college kids long before they were kicking the old fart's butts. We hit the hay around 10:00pm, as 5:30am comes awfully early for young-ins used to getting up at noon ;-)

The morning was crisp and clear. Much of the trail was still snow covered, and with overnight temps in the 30's, it wasn't forgiving. We made our way across the plateau and it wasn't until our first break - nearly an hour after leaving camp - that we ran into our first human. Note to self -- if you're going to lead popular climbing routes, do it mid-week!

Aaron enjoying the solitude we all shared

By the time we reached the crater rim, a few more climbers had appeared. The thing I like about South Sister is that there's more than enough mountain for everyone. The thing I like about reaching the crater rim is that all the hard work is done!

Dylan feeling strong at the crater rim

We regrouped and made our way over to the summit. The sky was perfectly clear. We could see all the way from Mt Adams up north down to Mt Shasta in the south, including all the mountains in between. With temps in the mid-50's and a gentle breeze, it's no wonder we spent over an hour relaxing on the summit!

Posing for the paparazzi

.... and just for good measure:

This one was long overdue

Unfortunately, the real world awaited us. We took a quick trip to the other side of the crater to check out the NW ridge, snapped a few more photos, and reluctantly headed down.

Aaron taking one last look before our descent

We're out!

For additional trip photos, click here: John's Webshots

Thanks for the visit! ~John

2011 Climb Schedule - First Climb

2011-08-01T19:47:00.000-07:00

Better late than never! Hopefully a window in the weather will match the window in my work schedule. This first one is always fun, and boasts one of the best summit views in Oregon.

Enjoying a perfect summit with Glo & Rick

For additional details, click here: Climb Schedule 2011

Enjoy the summer and we'll see you on the trail!

Climb Schedule 2011

2011-08-01T18:57:00.000-07:00

Chemeketan Climb Schedule (scroll down for details):

1. South Sister - August 9-10, 2011
2. Mount St Helens - Sept 6-7, 2011
3. TBD

1. South Sister, South Side, August 9-10, 2011

South Sister from just above Moraine Lake

This climb is where opportunity and desire meet. I have to be in Bend on business the week of this climb (opportunity), and I've been asked to help a few new climbers get their first ascent (desire). Given that I'm coming off an injury that has had me on the climbing shelf for over a year, it seems like just the right time to dust off the ol' boots and hit the trail.

If you find yourself in Central Oregon next week and want a fun two-day climbing adventure, this climb could be for you. Although most climb South Sister in a long day this time of year, we plan to take an extra day and enjoy a greater climbing experience. We'll set our base camp above treeline near Moraine Lake. The next day we're up, down, and out. Is there a better way to spend a work day? Download and print details here: (Prospectus)

Current Climb Team:

1. John Petrie, Leader

2. Aaron Smith
3. Dylan Petrie
4. Randy Solansky
5.
6.

Additional South Sister Recon:

South Sister Weather - NOAA Pinpoint
Route description - Summit Post
Additional Info - USFS Climbing Page

2. Mount St Helens, Monitor Ridge, September 6-7, 2011

Mount St Helens, 1980

With any luck at all, we'll face better conditions than this! Where were YOU when Mount St Helens blew? It's been over 30 years, and if you've ever wondered how the areas is recovering, this is your chance to find out first hand. This climb offers something that very few people will see in their lifetime - the chance to personally witness a mountain in the midst of rebuilding itself.

We plan to head up Tuesday afternoon and spend the night at the climber's bivouac. Our plan is to get up early Wednesday morning, summit, and return the same day. I was able to secure five permits for this climb, but others may be available on the secondary market here: Cascade Climbers Permit Exchange Download and print details here: (Climb Prospectus)

Current Climb Team (alternates on file):

1. John Petrie, Leader

2. Gloria Petrie, Assistant Leader

3. Dylan Petrie

4. Rick Slezak

5. Aaron Smith

Additional Mount St Helens Recon:

St Helens Weather - NOAA Pinpoint

Route description - Summit Post

Additional Info - USFS Climbing Page

....

How Does That Saying Go?

2010-09-03T17:08:00.000-07:00

"Idle hands are the devils work," or something like that. Hey, I've been idle since my season-ending injury in February, and I have certainly neglected my blog. I'm blaming it on my Achilles, but in my heart, I know better. Trust me, I have plenty of ideas and plenty of things to post. With any luck at all, this will get me off my duff.

Therefore, with great adoration towards the subjects of this post, I offer the local climbing society this short animation. Please enjoy my short story entitled, "Jess & Amy Head to Smith"

Progress Report

2010-04-26T22:01:00.000-07:00

Here's a quick update on the progress of my recovery:

Six weeks in a cast, 10 days in a "boot", nine days in a shoe. Sadly, after eight weeks and five days of inactivity, 12 lbs gained.

The good news: I've been cleared to ride a bike and/or swim (did I mention the 12 lbs? I doubt I'll be swimming in public anytime soon. Not a pretty sight).

But that's not what this blog post is about. It's really about
When Kids Become Men.

This down time is KILLING me!

When Kids Become Men

2010-04-26T21:53:00.000-07:00

To bring you up to speed, I'll need to refer to an earlier post regarding the basketball game I missed as a result of my injury earlier that day. UCLA vs UW, second row behind the visitors bench, Senior Night. I entrusted the tickets to my nephew (and team manager assistant, who got me the tix in the first place) in hope that they would find a good home.

Feb 22, 2010: "As a side note, I told Matt he could give my tickets to Quincy Pondexter, the sole Husky senior that was playing his last home game before entering the NBA draft (expected to be a first round pick). On my way home, I was listening to his post game interview, and the radio announcer asked Quincy what was the most memorable part of his final home game experience. Without hesitation he replied, "Not only did my mom and dad get to see me in my final game, it turned out my brother and sister got to come too." Since those were my tickets, I had to smile to myself knowing that in the greater scope of things, I may have missed out on the largest margin of victory any Husky team has ever hung on UCLA (97-68), but for the Pondexter family, the memories of Quincy's final game will last a lifetime."

So there you go. I miss the game, but this kid's siblings get to watch their brother say goodbye to Husky Nation. As silver linings go, that's a good one.

So you can imagine my surprise when my nephew sent me a text message four weeks later. "Yer not goin 2 beliv wht I hve", he wrote. "What?", I replied. He wrote back, "Yul hv to c it 2 beliv it."

A week later my sister dropped off a package on her way to Ashland. I opened it up and just as Matt said, I cdnt beliv it. A framed 8 X 10 photo of the young Pondexter, flying towards the rim, ready to send the ball packing. Inscribed with a gold Sharpie, read the following:

"To John, Thanks a lot for the tickets. It really meant a ton. (signed) QP #20, Go Dawgs"

Say what you want about these kids -- that is one decent young man. Thanks Q! You too, Matt ;-)

My man, Quincy. He's a good one.

.

The Judges Score It 8 - 8.5 - 7.5 - 8 - 7.5

2010-02-23T18:06:00.000-08:00

The results are in. It's not a perfect 10, but I didn't crash and burn either.

Waiting for the Doc

Thank you to all of you that prayed for me and even for those of you that didn't. I went to the doctor this morning and it Coulda Been A Heckuva Lot Worse (Life)

Coulda Been A Heckuva Lot Worse

2010-02-23T17:53:00.000-08:00

The good news: No surgery!

The bad news: Partial tear confirmed, 3-6 weeks in a cast, out at least four months.

Hey, it's not a rupture

I met with the Orthopedist this morning and got the word; surgery not required but get ready for a long Spring. Could of been worse. The final diagnosis is that I have a partial tear in my left achilles tendon, but there's enough still attached to expect a reasonable chance of a near-full recovery. "90% use" anyway. I'll take it.

My man, Ivan, keeping it light (watch the toes, dude!)

This injury didn't come as a complete surprise. Last year I had to turn back at the top of Palmer Snowfield on Hood due to intense pain in my leg (Jess went on to summit solo. Humpf. Stinkin' kid). Later in the year I spent two self imposed weeks on the shelf when I overworked my achilles while training for the Portland Marathon. Naturally, I didn't consider these episodes injuries. I merely chalked it up to the price I had to pay in order to reach my specific goals. It comes with the territory. However, soreness is one thing, while a tear is definitely another. I knew as soon as it happened that this was the latter.

Purple, naturally. Now if I could just find a gold sock....

On the positive side, my entire body probably needs a break anyway. I fell like the staff at Kaiser Permanente knows what they're doing, so my outlook is good. I work with a young lady that is making some major changes in her life, and it's inspiring. Her mantra - it's not what happens to you that matters, it's how you handle it - seems apropos in my case as well. Right now I'm just trying to handle the thought of crutches for the next six weeks.

Ivan The (not so) Horrible

Finally, since we're on the subject of cliches and famous sayings, how about this one from the Chinese philosopher Lao-tzu: "A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step."

Hmm. As soon as I'm cleared to take a single step, my journey to recovery will begin.

Was there ever any doubt?

Dawg Days of Winter

2010-02-22T19:47:00.000-08:00

It had the makings of a perfect Seattle weekend; great weather, extra time to visit family, and tickets to two Washington Huskies basketball games.

If only it would have ended like it started! Unfortunately, in the near future anyway, I think my "LIFE" section is going to get more action than my "CLIMBING" sections. Find out why here:

Great Start, Bad Middle, Outcome TBD

To be continued.....

Great Start, Bad Middle, Outcome TBD

2010-02-22T16:27:00.000-08:00

What started out as a promising long weekend in Seattle, ultimately turned into an unexpected not-so-promising setback.

First I have to thank my nephew, Matt, (UW basketball manager) for an awesome trip to U-Dub last Saturday. I love the Huskies! Meeting all the basketball players, hanging out in the players' lounge, walking out the tunnel leading to the football stadium, checking out the National Championship Football Trophy -- all very cool experiences. I was in "Husky Heaven", and had no idea of the events forthcoming.

National Championship Trophy

It all started during the pre-game shoot-around Saturday afternoon. While Matt was off doing his managerial duties, I grabbed a seat down near the floor of Hec Ed Pavilion and watched head coach Lorenzo Romar and his assistants put the players through the paces. It brought back great memories of my days as a college basketball player (albeit on a much smaller scale). I was getting pumped. In only a few hours, I'd be watching the guys from the second row, right behind the visitors' bench, as they put their lessons to the test against UCLA in a nationally televised game on ESPN.

After most of the players left the floor, I asked Matt if we could take a few shots. After all, Justin Holiday (starting Husky forward and brother of Jrue Holiday, NBA rookie) was still shooting around at one end, and the other end was free. Plus, this is Hec Ed!

Feelin' the flow in Hec Edmundson Pavilion

At this point, I'm liking my chances

"As long as we're not here all afternoon I guess it's ok," he replied. Good man. "I only need a quick second to drain a 'tre' (a shot from beyond the three point arch) and we're outa here". Little did I know there would be nothing quick about it. First shot, "Clang!" Second shot, "Clang!" Did I mention I was a three point specialist in college? The excuses were already starting. "Dang, Matt, I guess I need to warm up," I whispered. After shooting a free throw I grabbed the ball and shot from the wing. Again, "Clang!" Ugh!

Curiously, there was a university administrator sitting on the visitors bench watching me with a big smile on her face. She was obviously enjoying my pitiful display. I walked over to her and gave her a big confident grin (just like I used to do when I could actually play this game) and picked up the loose ball.

"Ok," I told her, "This is it. Hero or zero. One more shot to live the dream. One more or that's it." "Do it!" she said with a laugh. I took the ball to the deep corner of the baseline, squared up, and let fly the most perfect 25 ft jumper of my career. Suddenly, "Snap!" "Aaarrrrgh!" I shouted. It felt like that lady hit me on the back of my leg with a leather strap. "Hey, lady!", I squawked. I turned around and realized she was several feet away from me, and by the look on her face that things weren't good. I tried to take a step and realized that the "Snap" I heard was my achilles tendon going for a ride.

Really? I'm going to injure myself on this floor? Right here? Right now? Shooting baskets? Are you kidding me? Sigh.

Four hours later, the ER doc finally checks me out. The initial diagnosis is a partial tear, to what extent she didn't know. Maybe surgery. Definitely rehab. She applied a 3/4 leg splint, threw a pair of crutches at me, some Vicodin, and I was on my way. By on my way, I mean the five hour drive back to Salem. No game. No dinner. No ESPN. Just me and my aching leg.

Me and my leg

Thanks, Sis, Christopher, and Dad for hanging out at the Steven's Hospital ER. Thank you, my dear wife, for taking care of me all day Sunday. You made a big difference the past two days.

Sitting pretty? Not.

I see the orthopedist tomorrow morning (Tuesday). Here's hoping I won't be on the shelf for the next twelve months.

As a side note, I told Matt he could give my tickets to Quincy Pondexter, the sole Husky senior that was playing his last home game before entering the NBA draft (expected to be a first round pick). On my way home, I was listening to his post game interview, and the radio announcer asked Quincy what was the most memorable part of his final home game experience. Without hesitation he replied, "Not only did my mom and dad get to see me in my final game, it turned out my brother and sister got to come too." Since those were my tickets, I had to smile to myself knowing that in the greater scope of things, I may have missed out on the largest margin of victory any Husky team has ever hung on UCLA (97-68), but for the Pondexter family, the memories of Quincy's final game will last a lifetime.

That, and I made my free throw. Which is nice.

2010 Climb Schedule - First Two Climbs

2010-02-15T22:26:00.000-08:00

It's that time of year again -- climbing season is fast approaching! Although these two climbs have been on the Chemeketan Climb Schedule for awhile now, I've added the climb details to my blog.

My first two climbs are the Mt Saint Helens "Retro Climb" and Sahale Peak. Check out the climb prospectus, pictures, and current climb rosters here: Climb Schedule 2010

See you on the mountain!

Climb Schedule 2010

2010-02-15T22:07:00.000-08:00

Chemeketan Climb Schedule (scroll down for details):

1. Mt St Helens "Retro Climb" - April 17-18, 2010
2. Sahale Peak - July 17-18, 2010

1. Mt Saint Helens "Retro Climb", Worm Flows - April 17-18, 2010

The view into the Mt Saint Helens crater.

(Chuck Bennett image)

Grab your woolen knickers and alpenstocks and prepare to embrace traditional mountaineering! This non-technical climb provides the perfect setting for our adventure, complete with marvelous crater views and world class glissades. Mix in an early season snow camp and you've got the makings for a great weekend!

So, exactly what is a Retro Climb? What do I wear? Do I need anything special? These questions and more are answered here: FAQ's

Gloria goes old school

Our plan is to head up Saturday morning, grab our permits, and start our approach to our eventual snow camp near treeline. We'll hang out in our retro gear, eat dinner together, tell lies, and make fun of all the other climbers in their fancy $450 Gortex shells. The next day it's up early, climbing together until we reach the crater rim, and then onto the summit. After numerous self-indulging photos we'll start the long glissade back to treeline. You'll be home by sunset! (prospectus)

Brad Pitt models retro garb, Chemeketan style

Current Climb Team:

1. John Petrie, Leader
2. Gloria Petrie
3. Matt VanCampen
4. Andrea VanCampen
5. Jade Ajani
6. Travis Klaas
7. John Coyier
8. Joanna Picchi
9. Aaron Smith
10.
11.
12.

Additional Retro Climb Recon:
What to Wear - Historic Climbing Photos
Mt. St Helens Weather - NOAA Pinpoint
Route description - Summit Post
Additional Info - USFS Climbing Page

2. Sahale Peak, Sahale Glacier - July 17-18, 2010

Sahale Peak from Cascade Pass

Sahale Peak is a special mountain. Not only is the view from the summit absolutely breathtaking, it rests in the heart of the North Cascades National Park. In other words, it's peak after peak as far as you can see. One visit to this area and you'll wonder why you ever climbed anywhere else. Sahale lies in a permit zone, so the team is limited to eight members. (prospectus)

Current Climb Team:

1. John Petrie, Leader
2. Gloria Petrie
3. Amy Palacios
4. Jess Palacios
5. Jade Ajani
6. Mike McHugh
7. Joanna Picchi
8. John Coyier
Alternates on file

Additional Sahale Peak Recon:
Sahale Peak Weather - NOAA Pinpoint
Route description - Summit Post
Additional Info - NPS Cascade Pass/Sahale Arm

More climbs to come......

It's A Wonderful Life

2010-01-01T13:50:00.000-08:00

I have to admit, I've got it pretty good. I have my health. I get to do what I want and hang out with interesting people I enjoy. Yes, I'm buried at work, but my boss is a real cupcake ;-)

I get to venture into places many can only imagine....

Fresh air!

I'm tougher than most pandas.....

Let me at 'em, let me at 'em....

I get to hang out backstage with rock stars....

What, you were expecting Snoop Dog?

I have my own Groupies....

She's a stalker, I tell you, a stalker!

A hot wife....

Aye, she's a fine wench!

And my son is a chip off the ol' block.

Confident, grounded, with a superior IQ

Yep, I'm pretty much The King!

His Majesty

Of course, the world has a way of playing tricks on us. So just to help me keep things in perspective, I've started a new category in my blog table of contents entitled, It's a Wonderful: Life

And Then It Was Gone

2010-01-01T12:58:00.000-08:00

As we go through life, events occur that define our place in the world. Sometimes these events are small, seemingly insignificant and hardly noticed. Yet other times, reality hits us square in the chin. This was one of those times.

"Men of a Certain Age" enjoy a summit w/ the girls

I am 47 years old. Ok, so my 48th birthday is coming up Jan 3. Whatever. Aside from the occasional Terminator Stout, I take pretty good care of my body. Climbing mountains, running marathons.... the "ususal" stuff middle aged men do while trying to cling to their fleeting youth. Fortunately for me, it seems to work most of the time.

A weak moment at the local watering hole

Consequently, the LAST thing I suspected when I walked into the small, Kingston, WA convenience store was the ego-busting missle launched from the 30-something checker. Oh, it started out innocently enough. I had found a whole box of "Rhino Bars", a rare commodity that I like to give to my clients when they visit the office (if you don't know about my penchant for rhinos by now, I don't know what to tell ya). I excitedly approached the checkout line and made my purchase. A slight smile from the checker, a nod from me, and nothing more. I was off to Mom's for Thanksgiving dinner. Pretty routine stuff.

Sure, until the day I pulled the receipt out of my wallet and gave it to Glo for month-end filing. I looked down at the piece of paper and there, there on the receipt, in the middle of the receipt, away from everything else on the receipt, in parenthesis, capital letters, quotated, read the following words:

"Kid, have you looked in the mirror lately?"

What? I rubbed my eyes and read the receipt again.

Bzzzt. "Sir, missle impact confirmed. A direct hit!"

Balance Due: $38.87

5% Senior Discount
$38.87 @ 5.000%: -$1.94

BALANCE DUE: $36.93

And in one, brief millisecond, the final chapter of my youth was closed.

More Quotes From Our Climbing Friends

2009-10-19T11:04:00.000-07:00

Thanks to everyone who responded to my request for more climbing quotes! Sheesh, we hang out with a group of characters.

Go to the contents on the right===>>>>
or you can check 'em out here: Quotes and Stories Enjoy!

Quotes From The Mountains, Series 2

2009-10-19T10:55:00.000-07:00

Thank you, Jolene Cox, for the book "The Quotable Climber". It's a fun read and a great resource to kick off Series 2:

"To have a great adventure, and survive, requires good judgement. Good judgement comes from experience. Experience, of course, is the result of poor judgement."
~Dr. Geoff Tabin, the fourth person to successfully climb The Seven Summits, and who has pioneered routes on all seven continents, including a first ascent of the East Face of Mt. Everest.

Jane Diefenbach, describing her climbing experiences with Keith Garlinghouse:

After two summers of being out together for a week at a time in the Colorado 14ers, Keith and I have talked about pretty much everything. I really thought Keith was new age, but now it seems that he’s becoming a pragmatist. Keith! I thought I knew ye.

Keith Garlinghouse in 2008: "Why am I here? (thinking, thinking, thinking) To live."

Keith Garlinghouse in 2009: "Why am I here? (little thought) To raise some kids."

Bryon Snapp reminded me of a classic we heard on Mt. Jefferson in 2007. As our team gathered together at the base of the summit pinnacle, a team of two popped their heads over the North Ridge. They had just finished Jefferson Park Glacier, one of the toughest routes up the mountain. When they were asked by someone on our team what advice they had for the route they just climbed, one of them responded:

"Hey, if you don't like your hand hold, put it back."
~Unknown Jefferson Summitter

Linda Bedard swears this is true (of course, I vehemently deny it.):

"That anchor should hold as long as nobody pulls on it!"
~Yours Truly, calling back to the team while leading The Terrible Traverse on North Sister

"To the rest of the world, I'm a tough guy. To Amy, I'm just a chump who needs an adjustment."
~Jess Palacios, Chemeketan Leader, describing himself in his blog

Sage advice from one of our more beloved Chemeketan Climb Leaders:

"Never rappel anything you can downclimb," and "The most important step is the one you're on."
~Ellen Gradison, Climbing Role Model

During The Mazamas Advanced Rock Class, Jess was working a route when a rock he grabbed broke loose, spilling dust down between his legs, covering his shoes. Suddenly, a soft voice behind him exclaimed,

"Ooooo! It pooped!"
~Ellen Gradison, Climbing Role Model???

Ellen being Ellen

While climbing a difficult rock route:
Jess: "I know it's run out but it's easy up here."
Vince: "Ok, we'll put that on your tombstone."

"I can't say much for you, but that Glo is one sexy golfer!"
~Jane Diefenbach, Ex-Climbing Friend, after viewing pictures on my blog

Earlier this year on Mt Washington, we were climbing up one of the gullies and a chunk of volcanic crud came screaming towards this team member's head. "Rock!" we yelled as we all ran for cover. All we heard back was:

"Paper, scissors.... dang! Now I gotta carry the rope."
~Bryon Snapp, Climbing Nut

Bryon being Bryon

"See that loose chockstone there? Grab it, it's bomber."
~Jess' climbing buddy, George, as he coaches Jess up his first 5.11 trad lead

My climbing partner and I were on Prusik Peak in The Enchantments. Things were going well, as we made quick work of the easy lower pitches. Upon reaching the base of the crux - a super exposed, 5.7 friction slab - it seemed as though we were standing around for an inordinate amount of time. I asked my partner (and leader) what he was waiting for and he responded:

"Just give me a minute, just a minute. I'm waiting for my butt to stop puckering!"
~Matt Vancampen, Chemeketan Climb Leader

Until next time....

Portland Marathon, Gloria's Perspective

2009-10-19T10:52:00.000-07:00

The following is a short journal submission originally composed by Gloria for her writing class. She is required to submit one entry per week for the duration of the term. I thought this one was pretty good, and sort of adds a side note to the marathon blog I posted a couple of days prior to this one.

Gloria:
It's dark but the street lights help to illuminate the faces of those closest to me. My husband is standing to my left, rocking back and forth, blowing on his hands to keep them warm. The weather report said it would be in the mid-forties this morning with no chance of rain. They're spot on so far. I give my bare legs a cursory once over with the hand warmer my husband handed me. It gives me minimal relief, but that's ok. I'm so excited and just want to get started. I glance at my watch yet again and see it's almost 7am. The crowd gets a little louder and those near me are wishing each other an excited "Good luck!" and a positive "See you here later, ok." I look at John, wanting to say something but no words come out. I can only smile, wrinkle my nose, and feel the tears well up, just a bit. All this training had better get us back here as well!

I hear a muffled announcement up front. I laugh to myself because I can't understand a word that's been said. Finally a loud "Five, four, three, two, one, GO!" reverberates off the buildings. I now hear and understand. We're all cheering because we know the first wave of people is off. We start moving, slowly at first, cheering as each wave is given the countdown for their start. At last, with my heart pounding, I look down in amazement and see my own feet crossing the starting line. We've made it - Our first run in the Portland Marathon!

Nervous energy from the crowd as we wait for the countdown

No turning back now

The Portland Marathon & Other Adventures

2009-10-16T14:37:00.000-07:00

As we near the "off season", I'm finally finding time to get caught up on some of our adventures from the past few months. Our rock climbing trip to Southern Oregon, our day at Sister's Boulders -- all worthy trip reports in one state of production or another.

But here's one that found it's way to the top of the list. While the main event isn't climbing, it's still closely related. Plus, if you don't like it, too bad. It's my blog! Ha!

Portland Marathon 2009 under "Other Adventures"===========>>>>

Portland Marathon, Oct 6, 2009

2009-10-16T14:27:00.000-07:00

I am not a runner.

I am a climber. That's what I do. Since 2002, Gloria and I have climbed a myriad of peaks from Canada to California. We've slept in the crater of Mt Kilimanjaro. I read guide books before bed every night. My golfing buddies are a distant memory (as is my single digit handicap). When I read trip reports, my brow sweats with anticipation. Recently, I met Jess for coffee. We discussed which three week period of time we planned to block out for Rainier 2010 (did you get that, Rick Barry?). Kautz Glacier? Fuhrer Finger? Ingraham Direct? Hey, we only have nine months to figure it out.

I am not a runner.

Kilimanjaro Summit 2007

Back in 2004, Gloria and I were part of a delightful Mt Olympus team led by Herb Fecker and Bill Saur. On the last day, we decided to hike all the way out. Eighteen miles with a 50lb pack. It took us eight hours. That got me thinking. If we can haul all that weight over 18 miles, surely we can run a marathon (26.2 miles) in running shorts and a t-shirt! We're climbers! Running is a piece of cake! There's only one problem.

I am not a runner.

Mt Olympus 2004 - Jerry, Herb, Glo, & Matt

Ok, so I run some. I run as part of my training program so I can climb. Short distances. It's a means to an end. Run hard, run fast. Get it done. Make it hurt. No pain, no gain. January 2005. We start training for The Portland Marathon. I mean, we have to run to get in shape anyway, so it's perfect. "C'mon Glo!", I belched, "we gotta pick up the pace!" Two weeks later, Glo was down with shin splints. Our marathon training regime was dust. Climbing on hold. Not surprising.

I am not a runner.

Fast forward to Thanksgiving, 2008. Gloria wants to take up running. She likes climbing, but she feels like she's accomplished more than she ever hoped to accomplish, and now she wants to try something else. She joins the women's running group at Gallagher Fitness Resource in Salem. What do I care? I can still hang out with my girl while she piddles around with her new hobby. I have to do a little running anyway. I run to climb. Running is cake. It's not going to kill me. Just as long as we're clear.

I am not a runner.

January 2009 - Cascade 10K

All her talk of running a marathon gets me going. Ok, I'll do it. I'll give it a try for Glo. Of course, now I have to do it her way. Interval training, 5K's, 10K's, run slow to build endurance. What a bunch of hooey. But for Glo, I'll do it. I'm still going to climb. I only run to climb. Up at 4:30am for another training run. "What are we doing today? 4 & 1's? 6 & 1's?" I asked. (Why do I know what that means?) "What's our target heart rate today, Glo? If we run short-long-short, I think we can keep it in the high 140's." Ok, so this new Polar running watch is kinda cool. I like new gear. The watch even gives me data on my split times, and I can download it into a report that...... wait a minute!

I am not a runner.

4:30am. Here we go again. Today is "hill day". Eight miles. I hate hill day. But I have to do the hills to prepare for miles 15-17, the spot in the marathon leading up to the St John's Bridge. The place where most runners bonk. Gotta prepare. Gotta stick to the plan. Next weekend we run twelve. My week is set. Cross training, rest, short, medium, rest. Then twelve on Saturday. "Naw, I can't go to Smith Rock this weekend", I lied. "I have to.... uh.... I have too much work around the house." Right. Gotta get in twelve. Stay the course. The following weekend we run another 10K. I must admit, the shirts are pretty cool. Light weight. Technical. Maybe I'll use it as base layer on Hood. Hmm. I haven't climbed in awhile.

I am not a runner.

After eight miles at Minto-Brown Park

A month to go. Fighting nagging injuries. Calling in favors from generous friends, just to keep my body together. You know who you are. THANK YOU. Running 22 this weekend. My toes are numb. My achilles is screaming. Cortisone is awesome. Vitamin "I" is a runner's staple. We've run 5K's in Eugene. 10K's in Turner. We ran in the Cascade Lakes Relay in July. Up at 4:30am on countless mornings. I know every bark chip around Bush Park. Intervals. Heel cups. Nipple tape(!) Body Glide. More Vitamin "I". I've lost 15 lbs. Almost time to taper off. Stick to the plan. Sigh. This is tougher than I thought.

I am not a runner.

Finally, we're ready to begin. Us and 8,500 others.

Today is the day. The countdown has begun. We're off! No stopping now. The heck with intervals. Slow and steady. Mile eight, and we're not even breathing hard. The half way point. 2:29.58. Keep moving. Mile 15. Here comes the St John's hill. Glo looks strong. I'd love to walk. Everybody else is walking! Dang, Glo looks strong. Gotta keep running. Passing walkers one at a time. Mile 22.5. A new personal best! My feet are killing me. Every step is closer to the end. Every step is a personal best. Keep running. My knees are toast. My wind is good. Body bad. Keep running.

Crossing The St. John's Bridge

Mile 24! Mile 25! Keep running. Holy crap my feet are trashed. The final turn. Hundreds of people line the route. They're cheering! This feels good! Keep running! There it is -- the finish line! "Give me your hand Glo! We're going to make it!". Together we cross the finish line of The 2009 Portland Marathon!

Yeah!

Wrapped in a space blanket, my body is numb. They hand me a rose. A kiss from Glo, my mind reboots. It's over. No more diets. All the work is done. Ten months. All those early mornings. All that training. All those miles. Done! Finally, it's time for reflection. I learned something about myself this summer.

I am not a runner.

And I have the marathon medal to prove it.

Clydesdale & Bonnydale

Reaping the spoils of my labor

A Time for Reflection and Humor

2009-08-28T21:39:00.000-07:00

Gloria and I are taking a few days off from pretty much everything! We're down here in Klamath Falls, Oregon, hangin' out at the Running Y Ranch. We actually golfed this morning! First time in over a year and probably only the 5th time since 2002!

"I'd rather be climbing!"

"I'd rather be running!"

Ah, such is life. Actually, it's pretty nice to get outa "Dodge" for awhile. It's given me time to think about, well, climbing. I found myself thinking about some of the funny things that I've seen and heard in the mountains over the years. Some of it first hand, some of it through the grapevine, most of it true.....

I thought it might be fun to share some of these things, since many of the people that actually take the time to read self-serving blogs like this are many times the stars of the show! Here's the first of (hopefully) many updates: Quotes and Stories

Quotes From The Mountains, Series 1

2009-08-28T19:51:00.000-07:00

Arguably the best philosophical mountain climbing quote of all time:

"Getting to the top is optional, but getting down is mandatory."
~Ed Viesturs, Famous Mountaineer

After a long, hot, 15+ hour day of climbing that included a lengthy discussion on the dangers of drinking unfiltered water in the backcountry, these precious words emerged just as the author plunged his whole head into a slow-moving creek:

"I don't care of if there's a marmot upstream pissing on a dead deer carcass, I'm getting a drink!"
~Keith Hill, Chemeketan Climb Leader

We had just reached the summit of Mt Washington early in our climbing careers, when Gloria, Rick B. and I were faced with a ropeless descent back to the final rappel horn. As we stared down the 30', low-5th class wall just below the summit (widely considered the crux of the climb), our voices quivered as we asked our fearless leader if he really expected us to downclimb, given that a fall would send us bouncing 1,500' into the rocks below:

"Hey, you gotta learn sometime."
~Herb Fecker, Chemeketan Climb Leader

During an Advanced Snow & Ice field session with the Mazamas, we were instructed on the importance of keeping our knots neat and orderly. This was communicated in two ways:

"A not neat knot need knot be knotted." and "You need not knot a not neat knot." ~Wim Aarts, Mazama Climb Leader

One of our famous friends had just finished the Tatoosh Traverse near Mt Rainier. On the way home, the climb team stopped at the Morton Market, one of the few places you can get Dick's Beer, a microbrew brewed in Centralia, Wa. Tired and haggared from the climb and with a thirst for the ages, our dear friend pounded a Dick's Danger Stout and declared (in his Arnold Swartzenegger sounding voice):

"That's the best Dick (beer) I ever had!"
~Nameless Turk, Climber Extraordinaire

During our 18 mile approach to Mt Olympus, one of our team members was having trouble with his insides, causing him to make numerous off-trail pit stops. Ultimately, his T.P. supply was exhausted. When we reached the summit pinnacle, the conditions were such that reaching the top required a 5.6-ish "power move" over a lightly protected, overhung boulder. As I waited for him on the summit, I heard a HUGE grunt, followed by a sad groan and this gem:

"Remember that extra blue bag I asked you for? Never mind.... it's too late!"
~Keith Hill, Chemeketan Climb Leader, in the early years

Most people try to go as light as possible on multi-day climbs, especially when it comes to food. So when one climb team member pulled out an elaborate meal on the summit of Mt Baker, we all had a good chuckle at his expense. Never one to mince words, he exclaimed:

"It's a gourmet Thai roll with ginger-lime dipping sauce, DAMMIT!" ~Bill Saur, Chemeketan Climb Leader

Garry S. & Mike M. help Bill with his summit feast. What, no fried wonton?

Washington-Ellinor Traverse, Olympic Range - July 23-24, 2009

2009-08-06T20:20:00.000-07:00

Mt Washington from the trailhead

What started out as a casual (so we thought) day climb, ultimately turned into a strenuous, fun-filled undertaking that not only satisfied our physical ambition but opened our eyes to a whole new climbing wonderland; The Olympic Mountains.

"Mt Pershing looks like an interesting challenge," Vince exclaimed (voice inflection and everything!) as he gazed west from Mt. Washington's rocky summit, "I bet we could climb the south ridge, descent the east ridge, traverse to Mt. Jefferson, and hike out to the same trailhead." "Yeah, and check out Mt. Cruiser," I offered, pointing southwest towards the dorsal fin of Sawtooth Ridge, "SWEET technical routes to the summit, and you can climb most peaks in the range from the same base camp! That's gotta happen!" Foreshadow alert; it definitely WILL happen later this Fall.

Sawtooth Ridge

So many mountains, so little time. But first things first. We've got our own traverse to complete.

It all started innocently enough. My (retired) buddy Chuck sent out a climbers-group email looking for a midweek climb. Easy for him, but me? Work... climb.... work.... climb.... dang. The never ending battle. After weighing my work responsibilities against my selfish desires, I arrived at the only possible answer -- I was on the phone to Chuck w/in five minutes. Within ten minutes we had our objective. Mt. Washington here we come!

Next to respond was Vincent. I always enjoy climbing with Vincent. He was the leader of Gloria's and my first ever Chemeketan climb - Mt. Hood - and we've always had a great time in the mountains. Daring Dan rounded out the team.

Vincent, Chuck, Dan, & Me

After a casual night at the Big Creek Campground, we rolled out early Friday morning and drove to the trailhead. Literally three steps onto the trail, we were ascending at a rate of 3,200' for the first two miles. I'm talking up. Hand over fist, foot over foot, swinging from vines.

Some may call it a trail I guess

Finally we reached the Big Creek Basin where we "enjoyed" the loose scree slope leading to "The Tower". Having never climbed the route, we knew we were ok because the guidebook rates it as merely fourth class.... as long as you stay on the trail of course, and avoid "The Tower". Sigh. Up we went.

"The Tower"

Hey, it wasn't death defying but it wasn't fourth class either. It was actually 80' of enjoyable low 5th class climbing on moderate (read: loose, crappy) rock. Just as we topped out, Vince looked over his shoulder and made two interesting observations: a rappel sling just to the left of us and even more surprising, the trail 80' below (oops!).

After a downclimb here and a short hike there, we arrived at the saddle near the foot of the summit pinnacle. We welcomed the gentle breeze that creeped it's way up the west side of the rocky slope. After a few short minutes we topped out. 3-1/2 hours from the car, Mt Washington was toast.

Still spry on Washington's summit

We now turned our sights on Mt Ellinor. Looking down the ridge that connects the two mountains, it appeared we may have a chance to boogie around enough gendarmes to make a go of it.

Looking down the ridge towards Mt. Ellinor

Unfortunately, as much as we were ready to tango, Ellinor was not. Dang wench! We descended a few hundred more feet, determined to stay as high as possible as we worked our way south towards our goal. After a short time, we ran into a couple of old guys (maybe a year or two younger than Vince) who said that the standard traverse route was to descend back into Big Creek Basin and follow a trail to the FOOT of the Ellinor Chute, 1,400' below the summit. Oh ok, sure, right, thanks, whatever you say.... NOT. We're Chemeketans not Cub Scouts. We held the course.

Up some talus, across a plateau, up a gulley, down a scree slope, up more talus, across a snow patch, down a cliff (thank you, hanging branches), across a short sidehill and we arrived at the dreaded final gulley. Hand over fist, foot over foot, swinging from vines (sound familiar?) and we popped out at the TOP of the Ellinor Chute, thank you very much!

Lake Cushman from the top of the Ellinor Chute

The welcoming party (a big Billy sitting in the snow next to his dear Nannie and baby Billie) cheered us on as we pranced (read: limped) by on our way to the final ramp leading to the summit.

Mountain goat welcoming committee

We were moving with purpose (read: slow) when another really old couple (about Vincent's actual age) approached us and offered their encouragement. They were wearing Hawaiian shirts and flip flops, and had obviously arrived via the Upper Ellinor Trailhead. "Hang in there Sonny," the ol' fart growled, "You can make it! Hey, you look like you've been through a war! Did I ever tell you about my experience in WWI....?" Good Lord, get me outa here! It's amazing how "old guy talking" gets your heart pumping again. The Ellinor summit was ours!

The summit was HOT but after that manly traverse, we felt very COOL. We readied ourselves for a summit photo right in front of a pile of rocks; the true summit. We were feeling pretty proud of our accomplishment as we puffed out our chests and patted eachother on the back. Just as a willing bystander raised my camera and prepared to document our place in history, Big Billie jumped up on the rocks behind us, baying towards the camera. Not to be outdone, Little Billie followed. We were upstaged by a couple of mountain goats!

What the....?

Ba-a-a-a-a-a-d goats!

We all had a good laugh and decided it was time to head down. Ahh, a real trail. After all we'd faced, the path felt like walking on goose down and rose petals. A few miles and a dusty pickup ride later, we were showering off under a roadside waterfall. The 8-1/2 hour trip felt more like twelve, but as we sat for dinner at the greasy Hoodsport Pub & Grub, looking across the table at eachother's cheesy grins, it was obvious that we were all thinking the same thing: Life is GOOD.

Oh yeah!

Three Fingered Jack (7,841') - July 11, 2009

2009-07-25T21:33:00.000-07:00

Three Fingered Jack; chossy, rotten, challenging, airy, varied, and fun, fun, fun! Our team of six got up and out early Saturday morning for what proved to be a wonderful day in the mountains.

Tony, Sarah, Vaqas, Ken, & Mike

We were expecting lots of climbers and lots of bugs, but we got neither (no climbers and only a few bugs). If you've ever climbed 3FJ, you know that's a BIG win right out of the shoot.

Provisional Climb Leader Mike Rudy led us up the snow-patched PCT to the base of the climber's trail leading up to the saddle and onto the South Ridge.

Looking back at the saddle

From there we danced around several gendarmes, up scree covered crud, and finally to the base of The Crawl, where you actually have rock that is "sort of" stable. It's always fun to see how new climbers react to their first look at The Crawl, and Ken, Tony, and Sarah didn't disappoint. They nailed it without hesitation!

Mike and I continued up to the base of The Chimney and setup a fixed line leading to the airy, crumbly, knife-edge summit.

The upside of the 3FJ summit is the great views of Mt Jefferson to the northwest and all the familiar Three Sisters, et al, peaks to the south. The downside is that your lifeline is attached to a couple of fingernail sized chicken heads that cluck in the wind! After a few macho photos it was time to head down. As always, the descent and subsequent hike out was painfully longer than you'd expect, but fortunately we had a talkative, charismatic (!) Vaqas to keep our minds off the dusty trail. Thanks, man!

Descending down to The Crawl

Once back to the trailhead, my duties as mentoring leader were finished (nice job, Mike). For the rest of the team, the prospect of climbing Mt Washington on Sunday still loomed. Thankfully, thunderstorms and low clouds provided the perfect excuse to reschedule to a later date. Brewskis around! Yep, it's a charmed life.

Mt Ellinor, SE Chute (5,944') - June 6, 2009

2009-07-25T19:38:00.000-07:00

You never know how things are going to work out. I have been looking for an opportunity to lead a Chemeketan club climb of Mt. Ellinor for over a year, but for one reason or another it hasn't happened. Consequently, when poor weather forced Scott Kelley to cancel his provisional lead of Middle Sister (I was his mentoring leader), I suggested we give the ol' girl a shot. While not great, at least the weather was better than bad so we decided to go for it.

As we worked our way up I-5 towards the turnoff to Hoodsport, we realized this may have been a better idea on paper than in reality -- it was raining cats and dogs! Finally, less than ten miles from the trailhead, we hit dry road. We still had to deal with low clouds, but at least we were dry.

Our Team: Stephen, Cathy, Mark, Gloria, Chuck, Diane, Cynde, Me, Scott, & Wild Bill (front).

There are three trailheads leading to Mt. Ellinor; the upper (for mom's, dad's, kids and dogs), the lower (1.9 miles longer and our choice), and the trail out of Big Creek Campground (add 3.6 miles & several hundred feet of elevation.... hey, we're tough, not crazy). The root-covered trail led past a wonderful vista view of Lake Cushman....

and eventually to a way trail leading to "The Chute".

We worked our way up through the low clouds, over frozen snow bridges, under low hanging branches, over rocky piles of loose talus, and across dry stream beds, eventually topping out just a few hundred feet below the summit.

Just as we regrouped for the final push, the warm sun broke through the clouds and we were blessed with a beautiful sunny summit! We made it!

After a pleasurable descent back to the car, there was nothing left but to enjoy one final luxury.... a post climb micro-brew! Congrats to all!

Wild Bill and Scott celebrate in style!

For more photos and commentary regarding this climb, please visit my Webshots Page

Mt Washington, Olympic Range NEW Climb

2009-07-19T20:09:00.000-07:00

Hello,

Check out the latest additions to my Blog. I've added a new Chemeketan climb - Mt Washington, Olympic Range - to the "2009 Climb Schedule" ======>>>

The "Weather & Conditions" page has been updated as well.

Home

2009-06-17T21:32:00.001-07:00

Hello and welcome to the evolution of my Rhino Ascents Blog! I think I'm finally getting my head around what I want for this site. Aside from climb schedules, pictures, and trip reports, I hope to add pages and features that will make this a viable resource for my fellow outdoor enthusiasts.

For starters, you can navigate my site by selecting pages from the "Contents" on the right ===>>>

The most recent addition is the "Weather and Conditions" page. Here you will find NOAA Pinpoint weather links to many popular climbing sites in the Western United States and Canada. Check back, because in no time you will find additional links related to climbing conditions, permits, road closures, and more!

Each time I make a significant improvement to the site, I'll announce it here, on my "Home" page. That and whenever I feel like spouting off about whatever strikes me that day. I'll do my best to keep it relevant!

That's all for now,

~John

Weather & Conditions

2009-06-11T12:40:00.000-07:00

Below is a list of popular climbing areas. Click on the mountain/area and you will be transferred to the NOAA Pinpoint weather website for that location.

Additionally, scroll down for links to other websites that include useful information on climbing, trail conditions, permits, etc. The Web Cams provide a real-time view of traffic flow, road conditions, and mountain weather.

Mountains & Alpine Areas - Oregon

Broken Top

Hood

Jefferson

Thielsen

Three Fingered Jack

Three Sisters
- North Sister
- Middle Sister
- South Sister

Washington

Mountains & Alpine Areas - Washington

Adams

Baker

Cruiser

Ellinor

Enchantments

Glacier Peak

Forbidden Peak

Liberty Bell Group

Olympus

Rainier

Shuksan

St Helens

Stuart

Washington

Mountains & Alpine Areas - Other

Garibaldi Provicial Park, BC, Canada

Shasta, CA

Whistler, BC, Canada

Rock Climbing & Crags

Acker Rock, OR

Horsethief Butte, OR

Leavenworth, WA

McCleary Cliffs, WA

Rabbit Ears (Umpqua), OR

Smith Rock, OR

Squamish, BC, Canada

Castle Crags, CA

Additional Climbing Information & Recon

Cascade Climbers - Trip reports, forums, and photos

Summit Post - Trip reports, route information, and photos

NWAC - Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center

Mt Rainier Climbing Blog- Info on climbing, permits, conditions, routes, and events on the mountain

Mt Shasta Climber's Guide - Everything you need to know about climbing Mt Shasta

Web Cams

Cascade Volcanoes - This link includes current web cam images from many of the prominent peaks not only in the northwest, but in the world. The site also offers climbing/skiing information for mountains in our region.

British Columbia - Southern BC road cams maintained by Drive BC

California - Live traffic cams maintained by CalTrans

Oregon - TripCheck road cams maintained by ODOT

Washington - Traveler Information maintained by WSDOT

2009 Climb Schedule

2009-02-01T08:33:00.000-08:00

Climb Summary (scroll down for details):

1. Horsethief Anchors & Rock Pro Class - April 17, 2009
2. Mt. Shasta, Green Butte Ridge - May 15-17, 2009
3. Mt. Washington in the Olympic Range, Big Creek Gully - July 23-24, 2009

1. Horsethief Anchors & Rock Pro Class - April 17, 2009

Leader: Jess Palacios
Co-Leaders/Assistants: John Petrie, Scott Phillips, Scott Kelley, Bryon Snapp, Mike Rudy

This seminar is designed to give Chemeketan Climb Leaders of all types an opportunity to brush up on their anchor building and gear placement skills. Jess Palacios will lead us through a series of exercises that will help get us all on the same page as we head into the climbing season. Even if you have taken this class in the past, I strongly recommend you sign up for another go-around. Jess' updated itinerary will take us from the basics up through advanced techniques that will help us all become more proficient as leaders. Non-leaders welcome as space allows. Visit Jess's Climbing Blog for more details.

Seminar Recon:
Horsethief Butte Weather - NOAA Pinpoint

2. Mt Shasta, Green Butte Ridge - May 15-17, 2009
NEW DATES!

Due to mountain conditions, we have moved this climb back one week. See updated prospectus below.

Current Roster:

John Petrie, Leader
Gloria Petrie, Assistant Leader
Greg Phillips, Assistant Leader
Lynn Kropf
Travis Klaas*

* 2009 climb school graduate

This is a great opportunity for climbers to experience a high altitude multi-day snow climb. Our plan is to start at the Bunny Flat TH and target the ridge bordering the east side of Avalanche Gulch, the most climbed route on the mountain. Depending on snow conditions and other variables, our backup plan is to join the horde in the gulch. Team size is limited but I will hold back some spots for newer climbers. (Prospectus)

Shasta Recon:
Mt. Shasta Weather - NOAA Pinpoint
Mt. Shasta Climbers Guide
Route Information - Summit Post

3. Mt Washington, Olympic Range - Big Creek Gully
July 23-24, 2009

Please Note: This is a weekday climb

Current Roster:

John Petrie, Leader
Dan Domrose
Chuck Bennett
Vincent Dunn

I've wanted to climb Mt. Washington in the Olympic Range for some time. With all the unpredictable weather we've been having this summer, we have to jump at any chance we get to bag some elevation. Mt Washington is a day climb in a beautiful environment. It's challenging enough to keep the veterans interested but still well within the abilities of most new climbers. For those of you who have the ability to get a day off work with short notice, I welcome you to join us for our day of exploration and adventure. (Prospectus) To print, simply right click on the document, print ipaper.

Mt. Washington Recon:
Mt. Washington Weather - NOAA Pinpoint
Campground Info - Big Creek CG
Route Information - Summit Post

2009 Trip Reports

2009-01-31T10:01:00.000-08:00

Mt Shasta, Avalanche Gulch (14,162’), May 15-17

Perfect weather, great companionship, and over 7,000 ft of elevation; what more could we ask for? After waiting an extra week for the avy danger to subside, our five member team began the six hour journey to Northern California and our date with the alluring Mt Shasta. If Mt Rainier is the “granddaddy of them all,” Mt Shasta is certainly the grandmamma. Unlike my grandma however, she’s no pushover.

Mt Shasta from Bunny Flat Trailhead

We spent the first night camping at the Bunny Flat trailhead (6,950’). Clear skies, a warm breeze, and the melodic sounds of a local Native American drum beat are all it took to send us off to la-la land. Early Saturday morning, we started our four hour approach to our high camp at Helen Lake (10,500’). We had originally planned to ascend Green Butte Ridge, but poor snow conditions and recommendations from both the local rangers and a friend that attempted (and bailed) the route the week before, convinced me that we’d have a better chance getting our summit via the standard Avalanche Gulch route. Thankfully, the decision paid off!

Our route leads to the ridge in the upper right of the image

Warm temperatures forced a 3:00am alpine start. If not for the constant chatter from the French team camped next to us, we might have actually slept that night! However, when you sign on for Avalanche Gulch, you get the privilege of camping with all sorts of characters in “tent city”. For some, this departure from the serenity of a typical alpine adventure is a deal killer, but for us it was an opportunity to share a common experience with people from all over the world and from all walks of life. Fun stuff!

Gloria surveys the scene from our high camp at Helen Lake (10,400')

The steep, 2,000’ climb up to the Red Banks starts right out of camp. We maintained a steady pace, and as we crested the ridge we were greeted by a beautiful pink sunrise. Half way to our goal and still going strong! At this point, I turned the reigns over to Travis Klaas, a recent climb school grad. Travis is a capable young man, and after telling him my compelling “old bull-young bull” story, I was confident he could lead our team up the next section without incident. This was to be his first summit, and he was certainly excited. Ya done good, kid. Within a short time we were on the plateau leading up to the summit pinnacle. A short twist and a turn later, we were all standing on top!

Summit celebration!

The summit was superb, and after 15 minutes we had it all to ourselves. We ate our lunch, signed the summit register, took a few photos, and eventually made our way back to camp. After a short rest, we donned our heavy packs and jumped into the nearest glissade chute we could find. 2,500’ later, it was time for snowshoes and the final leg back to the car. Sweet success!

Congratulations to my dear wife Gloria, Greg Phillips, Travis Klaas, and Lynn Kropf. You definitely earned it!

2008 Trip Reports

2008-06-19T08:29:00.000-07:00

South Sister, South Side, June 28-29

Robyn Smith was the provisional leader for this Chemeketan climb. I was her supervising leader. She did a great job for her first time out. Here's the edited version of Robyn's trip report:

"The 7 day forecast promised perfect weather but as the week progressed NOAA was threatening thunder showers..... We began our climb from Devil's Lake TH at 10:45 am. The snow covered any signs of a trail and with careful route finding we made our way through the forest and up onto the plateau. Once we were out in the exposed warm sunshine we opted to put on our snowshoes to make our way across the semi-soft snow arriving at camp at 1:00pm. We set up camp at 6,950 ft on a patch of snow free ground on the northeast side of the plateau in a patch of trees..... We ate lunch and looked at each other and discussed the possibility of summiting that afternoon (to beat the impending weather). We all felt good and agreed to go for it! At 2:00 pm we departed camp with only our essentials. Our rhythm propelled us to move fairly quickly allowing for breaks at every 1,000 ft gained. We arrived at the little cirque lake at the bottom of the Lewis Glacier 9,000 ft around 5:00 pm where we filtered water. There was very little wind and it was quite warm all day.... After an extended break at the little cirque lake, we proceeded to attack the last big push to the summit.... (The summit ridge) was snow free for the next 1,000 feet where we then encountered some crusty soft snow until we reached the crater rim.... Once on top of the crater we opted to slog across the inside of the crater directly to the summit. At 6:15 pm the team arrived on summit, elevation 10,358 ft. The views were phenomenal. Photos were taken, congrats shared, enjoying the moment observed by all. We departed before 7:00 pm back across the crater and back down the steep cinder scree ridge. Jenn and Robyn opted to glissade the snowfield to the west of the ridge and traverse across to the little cirque lake as John and Garry plunge stepped the scree. We made good time plunging through the soft snow arriving back at camp at 8:30 pm. After the sun set the 4 of us were treated to a "fireworks" show like no tomorrow! For hours we watched an amazing electrical storm brewing south of us. We finally dozed off to sleep after midnight and "slept in" the next morning. The sun was shining brightly persuading us out of our tents around 6:00 am. The morning was peaceful, another moment was taken by all as we sipped our hot coffee and soaked in the sights.... We could see the predicted thunderstorms moving north from the south. We arrived back at our cars by 10:45 am.... and met up in Bend with Gloria Petrie who ran in a 5K race that morning and had lunch (we missed breakfast). Perfect conditions mixed with a great group of people made for a memorable climb. Not to mention, it was the leader's first provisional leader climb! Climbers include: Robyn Smith, John Petrie, Jenn Truax, and Garry Stevenson."

Enjoying life on the summit!
More photos of this trip here: South Sister 2008 Webshots

Mt. Hood, Old Chute-Mazama Variation, June 14

Rick, Gloria and I took off late Friday night and headed up for yet another assault on Mt. Hood. Our plan was to get some good conditioning in before our Rainier attempt, originally scheduled for this weekend. We've been waiting all Spring for a legitimate opportunity to climb and we got it! We left Timberline @ 1:10am in moderate temps and light winds. We made decent time up the Palmer but when we got there, Glo informed us that she had aggrivated a previous achilles injury and was going to go down for fear of ruining her plans for Rainier. Unfortunate, but a good move.

Rick and I continued up the usual track, and by the time we reached the Hogsback several other groups appeared. We found our place in line and scurried up the Old Chute, passing six or seven climbers on our way. We took the Mazama variation, up through a tight gully hugging the cliffs on the right. By 7:10am we were standing on the summit!

Our descent was uneventful. We ran into our new buddy Brad (from ASI) on the Hogsback. He had just climbed the Pearly Gates without incident. Let it be said -- Mt Hood is open for business! Finally!

By 10:30 we were back to the car. Another great day in the mountains!

Looking North at the summit

The boys on top!

2008 Climb Schedule

2008-03-08T12:01:00.000-08:00

1. Olympic Range Retro Climb - Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute, April 26-27

CANCELED DUE TO WEATHER. NEW DATES TBD.

2. Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier, June 19-22

CANCELLED DUE TO WEATHER - REPLACED BY MT. SHASTA (BELOW)

Leaders: Rick Barry, John Petrie

Rick will lead us in another adventure up the "Jewel of The Cascades". We have a full team again this year, which should make for an excellent trip.

As of June 15, things are looking like they could go either way.

Rainer Recon:
Mt. Rainier Weather - NOAA Pinpoint
Mt. Rainier Weather - Recreational Forecast
Paradise, WA Weather - Extended Forecast
High Mountain Meteogram - Elev. 12,330'
Mt Rainier Climbing - Mike Gauthier Blog
Summit Post
Rick's Rainier Prospectus

2a. Mt Shasta, Hotlum-Bolam Ridge, June 20-22

Ok, so we got weathered off Rainier. How about Mt. Shasta? According to the Shasta rangers, the H-B route is in!

Shasta Recon:
Mt. Shasta Weather - NOAA Pinpoint
Mt. Shasta Climbers Guide
Route Information - Summit Post

3. Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys - July 25-27

RESCHEDULED - NEW DATES!

My original co-leader, Matt Vancampen, had to pull off this climb. Some lame excuse -- he's getting married! Congrats to Matt and Andrea! Because their wedding is on the same weekend as our original climb weekend, we're pushing it back to the last weekend of July.

The Fisher Chimney's route on Mt Shuksan is a Northwest classic. I climbed the route back in 2004 and it definitely gets your attention! Every member of this climb team will have important responsibilities. If you're looking to clip in, stare at the butt in front of you and slog up the mountain, you've come to the wrong place! (Prospectus)

Leader: John Petrie

Shuksan Recon:
Mt. Shuksan Weather - NOAA Pinpoint
Mt. Shuksan Recreation NWPS - Climbing Conditions
Summit Post