Thursday, June 19, 2008

2008 Trip Reports

South Sister, South Side, June 28-29

Robyn Smith was the provisional leader for this Chemeketan climb. I was her supervising leader. She did a great job for her first time out. Here's the edited version of Robyn's trip report:

"The 7 day forecast promised perfect weather but as the week progressed NOAA was threatening thunder showers..... We began our climb from Devil's Lake TH at 10:45 am. The snow covered any signs of a trail and with careful route finding we made our way through the forest and up onto the plateau. Once we were out in the exposed warm sunshine we opted to put on our snowshoes to make our way across the semi-soft snow arriving at camp at 1:00pm. We set up camp at 6,950 ft on a patch of snow free ground on the northeast side of the plateau in a patch of trees..... We ate lunch and looked at each other and discussed the possibility of summiting that afternoon (to beat the impending weather). We all felt good and agreed to go for it! At 2:00 pm we departed camp with only our essentials. Our rhythm propelled us to move fairly quickly allowing for breaks at every 1,000 ft gained. We arrived at the little cirque lake at the bottom of the Lewis Glacier 9,000 ft around 5:00 pm where we filtered water. There was very little wind and it was quite warm all day.... After an extended break at the little cirque lake, we proceeded to attack the last big push to the summit.... (The summit ridge) was snow free for the next 1,000 feet where we then encountered some crusty soft snow until we reached the crater rim.... Once on top of the crater we opted to slog across the inside of the crater directly to the summit. At 6:15 pm the team arrived on summit, elevation 10,358 ft. The views were phenomenal. Photos were taken, congrats shared, enjoying the moment observed by all. We departed before 7:00 pm back across the crater and back down the steep cinder scree ridge. Jenn and Robyn opted to glissade the snowfield to the west of the ridge and traverse across to the little cirque lake as John and Garry plunge stepped the scree. We made good time plunging through the soft snow arriving back at camp at 8:30 pm. After the sun set the 4 of us were treated to a "fireworks" show like no tomorrow! For hours we watched an amazing electrical storm brewing south of us. We finally dozed off to sleep after midnight and "slept in" the next morning. The sun was shining brightly persuading us out of our tents around 6:00 am. The morning was peaceful, another moment was taken by all as we sipped our hot coffee and soaked in the sights.... We could see the predicted thunderstorms moving north from the south. We arrived back at our cars by 10:45 am.... and met up in Bend with Gloria Petrie who ran in a 5K race that morning and had lunch (we missed breakfast). Perfect conditions mixed with a great group of people made for a memorable climb. Not to mention, it was the leader's first provisional leader climb! Climbers include: Robyn Smith, John Petrie, Jenn Truax, and Garry Stevenson."


Enjoying life on the summit!
More photos of this trip here: South Sister 2008 Webshots


Mt. Hood, Old Chute-Mazama Variation, June 14

Rick, Gloria and I took off late Friday night and headed up for yet another assault on Mt. Hood. Our plan was to get some good conditioning in before our Rainier attempt, originally scheduled for this weekend. We've been waiting all Spring for a legitimate opportunity to climb and we got it! We left Timberline @ 1:10am in moderate temps and light winds. We made decent time up the Palmer but when we got there, Glo informed us that she had aggrivated a previous achilles injury and was going to go down for fear of ruining her plans for Rainier. Unfortunate, but a good move.

Rick and I continued up the usual track, and by the time we reached the Hogsback several other groups appeared. We found our place in line and scurried up the Old Chute, passing six or seven climbers on our way. We took the Mazama variation, up through a tight gully hugging the cliffs on the right. By 7:10am we were standing on the summit!

Our descent was uneventful. We ran into our new buddy Brad (from ASI) on the Hogsback. He had just climbed the Pearly Gates without incident. Let it be said -- Mt Hood is open for business! Finally!

By 10:30 we were back to the car. Another great day in the mountains!


Looking North at the summit


The boys on top!