Climb Schedule 2010

Chemeketan Climb Schedule (scroll down for details):

1. Mt St Helens "Retro Climb" - April 17-18, 2010
2. Sahale Peak - July 17-18, 2010


1.  Mt Saint Helens "Retro Climb", Worm Flows - April 17-18, 2010

The view into the Mt Saint Helens crater.

(Chuck Bennett image)

Grab your woolen knickers and alpenstocks and prepare to embrace traditional mountaineering! This non-technical climb provides the perfect setting for our adventure, complete with marvelous crater views and world class glissades.  Mix in an early season snow camp and you've got the makings for a great weekend!

So, exactly what is a Retro Climb?  What do I wear?  Do I need anything special?  These questions and more are answered here:  FAQ's

Gloria goes old school

 Our plan is to head up Saturday morning, grab our permits, and start our approach to our eventual snow camp near treeline.  We'll hang out in our retro gear, eat dinner together, tell lies, and make fun of all the other climbers in their fancy $450 Gortex shells. The next day it's up early, climbing together until we reach the crater rim, and then onto the summit. After numerous self-indulging photos we'll start the long glissade back to treeline. You'll be home by sunset! (prospectus)

Brad Pitt models retro garb, Chemeketan style




Current Climb Team:

1.  John Petrie, Leader
2.  Gloria Petrie
3.  Matt VanCampen
4.  Andrea VanCampen
5.  Jade Ajani
6.  Travis Klaas
7.  John Coyier
8.  Joanna Picchi
9.  Aaron Smith
10.
11.
12.

Additional Retro Climb Recon:
What to Wear - Historic Climbing Photos
Mt. St Helens Weather - NOAA Pinpoint
Route description - Summit Post
Additional Info - USFS Climbing Page


2.  Sahale Peak, Sahale Glacier - July 17-18, 2010

 

Sahale Peak from Cascade Pass


Sahale Peak is a special mountain.  Not only is the view from the summit absolutely breathtaking, it rests in the heart of the North Cascades National Park.  In other words, it's peak after peak as far as you can see.  One visit to this area and you'll wonder why you ever climbed anywhere else.  Sahale lies in a permit zone, so the team is limited to eight members. (prospectus)


Current Climb Team:

1.  John Petrie, Leader
2.  Gloria Petrie
3.  Amy Palacios
4.  Jess Palacios
5.  Jade Ajani
6.  Mike McHugh
7.  Joanna Picchi
8.  John Coyier
Alternates on file

Additional Sahale Peak Recon:
Sahale Peak Weather - NOAA Pinpoint
Route description - Summit Post
Additional Info - NPS Cascade Pass/Sahale Arm

More climbs to come......

2009 Climb Schedule

Climb Summary (scroll down for details):

1. Horsethief Anchors & Rock Pro Class - April 17, 2009
2. Mt. Shasta, Green Butte Ridge - May 15-17, 2009
3. Mt. Washington in the Olympic Range, Big Creek Gully - July 23-24, 2009



1. Horsethief Anchors & Rock Pro Class - April 17, 2009

Leader: Jess Palacios
Co-Leaders/Assistants: John Petrie, Scott Phillips, Scott Kelley, Bryon Snapp, Mike Rudy

This seminar is designed to give Chemeketan Climb Leaders of all types an opportunity to brush up on their anchor building and gear placement skills. Jess Palacios will lead us through a series of exercises that will help get us all on the same page as we head into the climbing season. Even if you have taken this class in the past, I strongly recommend you sign up for another go-around. Jess' updated itinerary will take us from the basics up through advanced techniques that will help us all become more proficient as leaders. Non-leaders welcome as space allows. Visit Jess's Climbing Blog for more details.

Seminar Recon:
Horsethief Butte Weather - NOAA Pinpoint



2. Mt Shasta, Green Butte Ridge - May 15-17, 2009
NEW DATES!

Due to mountain conditions, we have moved this climb back one week. See updated prospectus below.

Current Roster:

John Petrie, Leader
Gloria Petrie, Assistant Leader
Greg Phillips, Assistant Leader
Lynn Kropf
Travis Klaas*

* 2009 climb school graduate

This is a great opportunity for climbers to experience a high altitude multi-day snow climb. Our plan is to start at the Bunny Flat TH and target the ridge bordering the east side of Avalanche Gulch, the most climbed route on the mountain. Depending on snow conditions and other variables, our backup plan is to join the horde in the gulch. Team size is limited but I will hold back some spots for newer climbers. (Prospectus)

Shasta Recon:
Mt. Shasta Weather - NOAA Pinpoint
Mt. Shasta Climbers Guide
Route Information - Summit Post


3. Mt Washington, Olympic Range - Big Creek Gully
July 23-24, 2009

Please Note: This is a weekday climb

Current Roster:

John Petrie, Leader
Dan Domrose
Chuck Bennett
Vincent Dunn


I've wanted to climb Mt. Washington in the Olympic Range for some time. With all the unpredictable weather we've been having this summer, we have to jump at any chance we get to bag some elevation. Mt Washington is a day climb in a beautiful environment. It's challenging enough to keep the veterans interested but still well within the abilities of most new climbers. For those of you who have the ability to get a day off work with short notice, I welcome you to join us for our day of exploration and adventure. (Prospectus) To print, simply right click on the document, print ipaper.

Mt. Washington Recon:
Mt. Washington Weather - NOAA Pinpoint
Campground Info - Big Creek CG
Route Information - Summit Post

2008 Climb Schedule

1. Olympic Range Retro Climb - Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute, April 26-27

CANCELED DUE TO WEATHER. NEW DATES TBD.



2. Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier, June 19-22

CANCELLED DUE TO WEATHER - REPLACED BY MT. SHASTA (BELOW)

Leaders: Rick Barry, John Petrie

Rick will lead us in another adventure up the "Jewel of The Cascades". We have a full team again this year, which should make for an excellent trip.

As of June 15, things are looking like they could go either way.

Rainer Recon:
Mt. Rainier Weather - NOAA Pinpoint
Mt. Rainier Weather - Recreational Forecast
Paradise, WA Weather - Extended Forecast
High Mountain Meteogram - Elev. 12,330'
Mt Rainier Climbing - Mike Gauthier Blog
Summit Post
Rick's Rainier Prospectus


2a. Mt Shasta, Hotlum-Bolam Ridge, June 20-22

Ok, so we got weathered off Rainier. How about Mt. Shasta? According to the Shasta rangers, the H-B route is in!

Shasta Recon:
Mt. Shasta Weather - NOAA Pinpoint
Mt. Shasta Climbers Guide
Route Information - Summit Post



3. Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys - July 25-27

RESCHEDULED - NEW DATES!

My original co-leader, Matt Vancampen, had to pull off this climb. Some lame excuse -- he's getting married! Congrats to Matt and Andrea! Because their wedding is on the same weekend as our original climb weekend, we're pushing it back to the last weekend of July.

The Fisher Chimney's route on Mt Shuksan is a Northwest classic. I climbed the route back in 2004 and it definitely gets your attention! Every member of this climb team will have important responsibilities. If you're looking to clip in, stare at the butt in front of you and slog up the mountain, you've come to the wrong place! (Prospectus)



Leader: John Petrie

Shuksan Recon:
Mt. Shuksan Weather - NOAA Pinpoint
Mt. Shuksan Recreation NWPS - Climbing Conditions
Summit Post