Thanks to everyone who responded to my request for more climbing quotes! Sheesh, we hang out with a group of characters.
Go to the contents on the right===>>>>
or you can check 'em out here: Quotes and Stories Enjoy!
Monday, October 19, 2009
Quotes From The Mountains, Series 2
Thank you, Jolene Cox, for the book "The Quotable Climber". It's a fun read and a great resource to kick off Series 2:
"To have a great adventure, and survive, requires good judgement. Good judgement comes from experience. Experience, of course, is the result of poor judgement."
~Dr. Geoff Tabin, the fourth person to successfully climb The Seven Summits, and who has pioneered routes on all seven continents, including a first ascent of the East Face of Mt. Everest.
Jane Diefenbach, describing her climbing experiences with Keith Garlinghouse:
After two summers of being out together for a week at a time in the Colorado 14ers, Keith and I have talked about pretty much everything. I really thought Keith was new age, but now it seems that he’s becoming a pragmatist. Keith! I thought I knew ye.
Keith Garlinghouse in 2008: "Why am I here? (thinking, thinking, thinking) To live."
Keith Garlinghouse in 2009: "Why am I here? (little thought) To raise some kids."
Bryon Snapp reminded me of a classic we heard on Mt. Jefferson in 2007. As our team gathered together at the base of the summit pinnacle, a team of two popped their heads over the North Ridge. They had just finished Jefferson Park Glacier, one of the toughest routes up the mountain. When they were asked by someone on our team what advice they had for the route they just climbed, one of them responded:
"Hey, if you don't like your hand hold, put it back."
~Unknown Jefferson Summitter
Linda Bedard swears this is true (of course, I vehemently deny it.):
"That anchor should hold as long as nobody pulls on it!"
~Yours Truly, calling back to the team while leading The Terrible Traverse on North Sister
"To the rest of the world, I'm a tough guy. To Amy, I'm just a chump who needs an adjustment."
~Jess Palacios, Chemeketan Leader, describing himself in his blog
Sage advice from one of our more beloved Chemeketan Climb Leaders:
"Never rappel anything you can downclimb," and "The most important step is the one you're on."
~Ellen Gradison, Climbing Role Model
During The Mazamas Advanced Rock Class, Jess was working a route when a rock he grabbed broke loose, spilling dust down between his legs, covering his shoes. Suddenly, a soft voice behind him exclaimed,
"Ooooo! It pooped!"
~Ellen Gradison, Climbing Role Model???
Ellen being Ellen
While climbing a difficult rock route:
Jess: "I know it's run out but it's easy up here."
Vince: "Ok, we'll put that on your tombstone."
"I can't say much for you, but that Glo is one sexy golfer!"
~Jane Diefenbach, Ex-Climbing Friend, after viewing pictures on my blog
Earlier this year on Mt Washington, we were climbing up one of the gullies and a chunk of volcanic crud came screaming towards this team member's head. "Rock!" we yelled as we all ran for cover. All we heard back was:
"Paper, scissors.... dang! Now I gotta carry the rope."
~Bryon Snapp, Climbing Nut
Bryon being Bryon
"See that loose chockstone there? Grab it, it's bomber."
~Jess' climbing buddy, George, as he coaches Jess up his first 5.11 trad lead
My climbing partner and I were on Prusik Peak in The Enchantments. Things were going well, as we made quick work of the easy lower pitches. Upon reaching the base of the crux - a super exposed, 5.7 friction slab - it seemed as though we were standing around for an inordinate amount of time. I asked my partner (and leader) what he was waiting for and he responded:
"Just give me a minute, just a minute. I'm waiting for my butt to stop puckering!"
~Matt Vancampen, Chemeketan Climb Leader
Until next time....
Portland Marathon, Gloria's Perspective
The following is a short journal submission originally composed by Gloria for her writing class. She is required to submit one entry per week for the duration of the term. I thought this one was pretty good, and sort of adds a side note to the marathon blog I posted a couple of days prior to this one.
Gloria:
It's dark but the street lights help to illuminate the faces of those closest to me. My husband is standing to my left, rocking back and forth, blowing on his hands to keep them warm. The weather report said it would be in the mid-forties this morning with no chance of rain. They're spot on so far. I give my bare legs a cursory once over with the hand warmer my husband handed me. It gives me minimal relief, but that's ok. I'm so excited and just want to get started. I glance at my watch yet again and see it's almost 7am. The crowd gets a little louder and those near me are wishing each other an excited "Good luck!" and a positive "See you here later, ok." I look at John, wanting to say something but no words come out. I can only smile, wrinkle my nose, and feel the tears well up, just a bit. All this training had better get us back here as well!
I hear a muffled announcement up front. I laugh to myself because I can't understand a word that's been said. Finally a loud "Five, four, three, two, one, GO!" reverberates off the buildings. I now hear and understand. We're all cheering because we know the first wave of people is off. We start moving, slowly at first, cheering as each wave is given the countdown for their start. At last, with my heart pounding, I look down in amazement and see my own feet crossing the starting line. We've made it - Our first run in the Portland Marathon!
Nervous energy from the crowd as we wait for the countdown
Gloria:
It's dark but the street lights help to illuminate the faces of those closest to me. My husband is standing to my left, rocking back and forth, blowing on his hands to keep them warm. The weather report said it would be in the mid-forties this morning with no chance of rain. They're spot on so far. I give my bare legs a cursory once over with the hand warmer my husband handed me. It gives me minimal relief, but that's ok. I'm so excited and just want to get started. I glance at my watch yet again and see it's almost 7am. The crowd gets a little louder and those near me are wishing each other an excited "Good luck!" and a positive "See you here later, ok." I look at John, wanting to say something but no words come out. I can only smile, wrinkle my nose, and feel the tears well up, just a bit. All this training had better get us back here as well!
Nervous energy from the crowd as we wait for the countdown
No turning back now
Friday, October 16, 2009
The Portland Marathon & Other Adventures
As we near the "off season", I'm finally finding time to get caught up on some of our adventures from the past few months. Our rock climbing trip to Southern Oregon, our day at Sister's Boulders -- all worthy trip reports in one state of production or another.
But here's one that found it's way to the top of the list. While the main event isn't climbing, it's still closely related. Plus, if you don't like it, too bad. It's my blog! Ha!
Portland Marathon 2009 under "Other Adventures"===========>>>>
But here's one that found it's way to the top of the list. While the main event isn't climbing, it's still closely related. Plus, if you don't like it, too bad. It's my blog! Ha!
Portland Marathon 2009 under "Other Adventures"===========>>>>
Portland Marathon, Oct 6, 2009
I am not a runner.
I am a climber. That's what I do. Since 2002, Gloria and I have climbed a myriad of peaks from Canada to California. We've slept in the crater of Mt Kilimanjaro. I read guide books before bed every night. My golfing buddies are a distant memory (as is my single digit handicap). When I read trip reports, my brow sweats with anticipation. Recently, I met Jess for coffee. We discussed which three week period of time we planned to block out for Rainier 2010 (did you get that, Rick Barry?). Kautz Glacier? Fuhrer Finger? Ingraham Direct? Hey, we only have nine months to figure it out.
I am not a runner.
Back in 2004, Gloria and I were part of a delightful Mt Olympus team led by Herb Fecker and Bill Saur. On the last day, we decided to hike all the way out. Eighteen miles with a 50lb pack. It took us eight hours. That got me thinking. If we can haul all that weight over 18 miles, surely we can run a marathon (26.2 miles) in running shorts and a t-shirt! We're climbers! Running is a piece of cake! There's only one problem.
I am not a runner.
Ok, so I run some. I run as part of my training program so I can climb. Short distances. It's a means to an end. Run hard, run fast. Get it done. Make it hurt. No pain, no gain. January 2005. We start training for The Portland Marathon. I mean, we have to run to get in shape anyway, so it's perfect. "C'mon Glo!", I belched, "we gotta pick up the pace!" Two weeks later, Glo was down with shin splints. Our marathon training regime was dust. Climbing on hold. Not surprising.
I am not a runner.
Fast forward to Thanksgiving, 2008. Gloria wants to take up running. She likes climbing, but she feels like she's accomplished more than she ever hoped to accomplish, and now she wants to try something else. She joins the women's running group at Gallagher Fitness Resource in Salem. What do I care? I can still hang out with my girl while she piddles around with her new hobby. I have to do a little running anyway. I run to climb. Running is cake. It's not going to kill me. Just as long as we're clear.
I am not a runner.
All her talk of running a marathon gets me going. Ok, I'll do it. I'll give it a try for Glo. Of course, now I have to do it her way. Interval training, 5K's, 10K's, run slow to build endurance. What a bunch of hooey. But for Glo, I'll do it. I'm still going to climb. I only run to climb. Up at 4:30am for another training run. "What are we doing today? 4 & 1's? 6 & 1's?" I asked. (Why do I know what that means?) "What's our target heart rate today, Glo? If we run short-long-short, I think we can keep it in the high 140's." Ok, so this new Polar running watch is kinda cool. I like new gear. The watch even gives me data on my split times, and I can download it into a report that...... wait a minute!
I am not a runner.
4:30am. Here we go again. Today is "hill day". Eight miles. I hate hill day. But I have to do the hills to prepare for miles 15-17, the spot in the marathon leading up to the St John's Bridge. The place where most runners bonk. Gotta prepare. Gotta stick to the plan. Next weekend we run twelve. My week is set. Cross training, rest, short, medium, rest. Then twelve on Saturday. "Naw, I can't go to Smith Rock this weekend", I lied. "I have to.... uh.... I have too much work around the house." Right. Gotta get in twelve. Stay the course. The following weekend we run another 10K. I must admit, the shirts are pretty cool. Light weight. Technical. Maybe I'll use it as base layer on Hood. Hmm. I haven't climbed in awhile.
I am not a runner.
A month to go. Fighting nagging injuries. Calling in favors from generous friends, just to keep my body together. You know who you are. THANK YOU. Running 22 this weekend. My toes are numb. My achilles is screaming. Cortisone is awesome. Vitamin "I" is a runner's staple. We've run 5K's in Eugene. 10K's in Turner. We ran in the Cascade Lakes Relay in July. Up at 4:30am on countless mornings. I know every bark chip around Bush Park. Intervals. Heel cups. Nipple tape(!) Body Glide. More Vitamin "I". I've lost 15 lbs. Almost time to taper off. Stick to the plan. Sigh. This is tougher than I thought.
I am not a runner.
Today is the day. The countdown has begun. We're off! No stopping now. The heck with intervals. Slow and steady. Mile eight, and we're not even breathing hard. The half way point. 2:29.58. Keep moving. Mile 15. Here comes the St John's hill. Glo looks strong. I'd love to walk. Everybody else is walking! Dang, Glo looks strong. Gotta keep running. Passing walkers one at a time. Mile 22.5. A new personal best! My feet are killing me. Every step is closer to the end. Every step is a personal best. Keep running. My knees are toast. My wind is good. Body bad. Keep running.
Mile 24! Mile 25! Keep running. Holy crap my feet are trashed. The final turn. Hundreds of people line the route. They're cheering! This feels good! Keep running! There it is -- the finish line! "Give me your hand Glo! We're going to make it!". Together we cross the finish line of The 2009 Portland Marathon!
Wrapped in a space blanket, my body is numb. They hand me a rose. A kiss from Glo, my mind reboots. It's over. No more diets. All the work is done. Ten months. All those early mornings. All that training. All those miles. Done! Finally, it's time for reflection. I learned something about myself this summer.
I am not a runner.
And I have the marathon medal to prove it.
I am a climber. That's what I do. Since 2002, Gloria and I have climbed a myriad of peaks from Canada to California. We've slept in the crater of Mt Kilimanjaro. I read guide books before bed every night. My golfing buddies are a distant memory (as is my single digit handicap). When I read trip reports, my brow sweats with anticipation. Recently, I met Jess for coffee. We discussed which three week period of time we planned to block out for Rainier 2010 (did you get that, Rick Barry?). Kautz Glacier? Fuhrer Finger? Ingraham Direct? Hey, we only have nine months to figure it out.
I am not a runner.
Kilimanjaro Summit 2007
Back in 2004, Gloria and I were part of a delightful Mt Olympus team led by Herb Fecker and Bill Saur. On the last day, we decided to hike all the way out. Eighteen miles with a 50lb pack. It took us eight hours. That got me thinking. If we can haul all that weight over 18 miles, surely we can run a marathon (26.2 miles) in running shorts and a t-shirt! We're climbers! Running is a piece of cake! There's only one problem.
I am not a runner.
Mt Olympus 2004 - Jerry, Herb, Glo, & Matt
Ok, so I run some. I run as part of my training program so I can climb. Short distances. It's a means to an end. Run hard, run fast. Get it done. Make it hurt. No pain, no gain. January 2005. We start training for The Portland Marathon. I mean, we have to run to get in shape anyway, so it's perfect. "C'mon Glo!", I belched, "we gotta pick up the pace!" Two weeks later, Glo was down with shin splints. Our marathon training regime was dust. Climbing on hold. Not surprising.
I am not a runner.
Fast forward to Thanksgiving, 2008. Gloria wants to take up running. She likes climbing, but she feels like she's accomplished more than she ever hoped to accomplish, and now she wants to try something else. She joins the women's running group at Gallagher Fitness Resource in Salem. What do I care? I can still hang out with my girl while she piddles around with her new hobby. I have to do a little running anyway. I run to climb. Running is cake. It's not going to kill me. Just as long as we're clear.
I am not a runner.
January 2009 - Cascade 10K
All her talk of running a marathon gets me going. Ok, I'll do it. I'll give it a try for Glo. Of course, now I have to do it her way. Interval training, 5K's, 10K's, run slow to build endurance. What a bunch of hooey. But for Glo, I'll do it. I'm still going to climb. I only run to climb. Up at 4:30am for another training run. "What are we doing today? 4 & 1's? 6 & 1's?" I asked. (Why do I know what that means?) "What's our target heart rate today, Glo? If we run short-long-short, I think we can keep it in the high 140's." Ok, so this new Polar running watch is kinda cool. I like new gear. The watch even gives me data on my split times, and I can download it into a report that...... wait a minute!
I am not a runner.
4:30am. Here we go again. Today is "hill day". Eight miles. I hate hill day. But I have to do the hills to prepare for miles 15-17, the spot in the marathon leading up to the St John's Bridge. The place where most runners bonk. Gotta prepare. Gotta stick to the plan. Next weekend we run twelve. My week is set. Cross training, rest, short, medium, rest. Then twelve on Saturday. "Naw, I can't go to Smith Rock this weekend", I lied. "I have to.... uh.... I have too much work around the house." Right. Gotta get in twelve. Stay the course. The following weekend we run another 10K. I must admit, the shirts are pretty cool. Light weight. Technical. Maybe I'll use it as base layer on Hood. Hmm. I haven't climbed in awhile.
I am not a runner.
After eight miles at Minto-Brown Park
A month to go. Fighting nagging injuries. Calling in favors from generous friends, just to keep my body together. You know who you are. THANK YOU. Running 22 this weekend. My toes are numb. My achilles is screaming. Cortisone is awesome. Vitamin "I" is a runner's staple. We've run 5K's in Eugene. 10K's in Turner. We ran in the Cascade Lakes Relay in July. Up at 4:30am on countless mornings. I know every bark chip around Bush Park. Intervals. Heel cups. Nipple tape(!) Body Glide. More Vitamin "I". I've lost 15 lbs. Almost time to taper off. Stick to the plan. Sigh. This is tougher than I thought.
I am not a runner.
Finally, we're ready to begin. Us and 8,500 others.
Today is the day. The countdown has begun. We're off! No stopping now. The heck with intervals. Slow and steady. Mile eight, and we're not even breathing hard. The half way point. 2:29.58. Keep moving. Mile 15. Here comes the St John's hill. Glo looks strong. I'd love to walk. Everybody else is walking! Dang, Glo looks strong. Gotta keep running. Passing walkers one at a time. Mile 22.5. A new personal best! My feet are killing me. Every step is closer to the end. Every step is a personal best. Keep running. My knees are toast. My wind is good. Body bad. Keep running.
Crossing The St. John's Bridge
Mile 24! Mile 25! Keep running. Holy crap my feet are trashed. The final turn. Hundreds of people line the route. They're cheering! This feels good! Keep running! There it is -- the finish line! "Give me your hand Glo! We're going to make it!". Together we cross the finish line of The 2009 Portland Marathon!
Yeah!
Wrapped in a space blanket, my body is numb. They hand me a rose. A kiss from Glo, my mind reboots. It's over. No more diets. All the work is done. Ten months. All those early mornings. All that training. All those miles. Done! Finally, it's time for reflection. I learned something about myself this summer.
I am not a runner.
And I have the marathon medal to prove it.
Clydesdale & Bonnydale
Reaping the spoils of my labor
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