Saturday, January 31, 2009

2009 Trip Reports

Mt Shasta, Avalanche Gulch (14,162’), May 15-17

Perfect weather, great companionship, and over 7,000 ft of elevation; what more could we ask for? After waiting an extra week for the avy danger to subside, our five member team began the six hour journey to Northern California and our date with the alluring Mt Shasta. If Mt Rainier is the “granddaddy of them all,” Mt Shasta is certainly the grandmamma. Unlike my grandma however, she’s no pushover.



Mt Shasta from Bunny Flat Trailhead

We spent the first night camping at the Bunny Flat trailhead (6,950’). Clear skies, a warm breeze, and the melodic sounds of a local Native American drum beat are all it took to send us off to la-la land. Early Saturday morning, we started our four hour approach to our high camp at Helen Lake (10,500’). We had originally planned to ascend Green Butte Ridge, but poor snow conditions and recommendations from both the local rangers and a friend that attempted (and bailed) the route the week before, convinced me that we’d have a better chance getting our summit via the standard Avalanche Gulch route. Thankfully, the decision paid off!


Our route leads to the ridge in the upper right of the image

Warm temperatures forced a 3:00am alpine start. If not for the constant chatter from the French team camped next to us, we might have actually slept that night! However, when you sign on for Avalanche Gulch, you get the privilege of camping with all sorts of characters in “tent city”. For some, this departure from the serenity of a typical alpine adventure is a deal killer, but for us it was an opportunity to share a common experience with people from all over the world and from all walks of life. Fun stuff!


Gloria surveys the scene from our high camp at Helen Lake (10,400')

The steep, 2,000’ climb up to the Red Banks starts right out of camp. We maintained a steady pace, and as we crested the ridge we were greeted by a beautiful pink sunrise. Half way to our goal and still going strong! At this point, I turned the reigns over to Travis Klaas, a recent climb school grad. Travis is a capable young man, and after telling him my compelling “old bull-young bull” story, I was confident he could lead our team up the next section without incident. This was to be his first summit, and he was certainly excited. Ya done good, kid. Within a short time we were on the plateau leading up to the summit pinnacle. A short twist and a turn later, we were all standing on top!


Summit celebration
!

The summit was superb, and after 15 minutes we had it all to ourselves. We ate our lunch, signed the summit register, took a few photos, and eventually made our way back to camp. After a short rest, we donned our heavy packs and jumped into the nearest glissade chute we could find. 2,500’ later, it was time for snowshoes and the final leg back to the car. Sweet success!

Congratulations to my dear wife Gloria, Greg Phillips, Travis Klaas, and Lynn Kropf. You definitely earned it!

Thursday, June 19, 2008

2008 Trip Reports

South Sister, South Side, June 28-29

Robyn Smith was the provisional leader for this Chemeketan climb. I was her supervising leader. She did a great job for her first time out. Here's the edited version of Robyn's trip report:

"The 7 day forecast promised perfect weather but as the week progressed NOAA was threatening thunder showers..... We began our climb from Devil's Lake TH at 10:45 am. The snow covered any signs of a trail and with careful route finding we made our way through the forest and up onto the plateau. Once we were out in the exposed warm sunshine we opted to put on our snowshoes to make our way across the semi-soft snow arriving at camp at 1:00pm. We set up camp at 6,950 ft on a patch of snow free ground on the northeast side of the plateau in a patch of trees..... We ate lunch and looked at each other and discussed the possibility of summiting that afternoon (to beat the impending weather). We all felt good and agreed to go for it! At 2:00 pm we departed camp with only our essentials. Our rhythm propelled us to move fairly quickly allowing for breaks at every 1,000 ft gained. We arrived at the little cirque lake at the bottom of the Lewis Glacier 9,000 ft around 5:00 pm where we filtered water. There was very little wind and it was quite warm all day.... After an extended break at the little cirque lake, we proceeded to attack the last big push to the summit.... (The summit ridge) was snow free for the next 1,000 feet where we then encountered some crusty soft snow until we reached the crater rim.... Once on top of the crater we opted to slog across the inside of the crater directly to the summit. At 6:15 pm the team arrived on summit, elevation 10,358 ft. The views were phenomenal. Photos were taken, congrats shared, enjoying the moment observed by all. We departed before 7:00 pm back across the crater and back down the steep cinder scree ridge. Jenn and Robyn opted to glissade the snowfield to the west of the ridge and traverse across to the little cirque lake as John and Garry plunge stepped the scree. We made good time plunging through the soft snow arriving back at camp at 8:30 pm. After the sun set the 4 of us were treated to a "fireworks" show like no tomorrow! For hours we watched an amazing electrical storm brewing south of us. We finally dozed off to sleep after midnight and "slept in" the next morning. The sun was shining brightly persuading us out of our tents around 6:00 am. The morning was peaceful, another moment was taken by all as we sipped our hot coffee and soaked in the sights.... We could see the predicted thunderstorms moving north from the south. We arrived back at our cars by 10:45 am.... and met up in Bend with Gloria Petrie who ran in a 5K race that morning and had lunch (we missed breakfast). Perfect conditions mixed with a great group of people made for a memorable climb. Not to mention, it was the leader's first provisional leader climb! Climbers include: Robyn Smith, John Petrie, Jenn Truax, and Garry Stevenson."


Enjoying life on the summit!
More photos of this trip here: South Sister 2008 Webshots


Mt. Hood, Old Chute-Mazama Variation, June 14

Rick, Gloria and I took off late Friday night and headed up for yet another assault on Mt. Hood. Our plan was to get some good conditioning in before our Rainier attempt, originally scheduled for this weekend. We've been waiting all Spring for a legitimate opportunity to climb and we got it! We left Timberline @ 1:10am in moderate temps and light winds. We made decent time up the Palmer but when we got there, Glo informed us that she had aggrivated a previous achilles injury and was going to go down for fear of ruining her plans for Rainier. Unfortunate, but a good move.

Rick and I continued up the usual track, and by the time we reached the Hogsback several other groups appeared. We found our place in line and scurried up the Old Chute, passing six or seven climbers on our way. We took the Mazama variation, up through a tight gully hugging the cliffs on the right. By 7:10am we were standing on the summit!

Our descent was uneventful. We ran into our new buddy Brad (from ASI) on the Hogsback. He had just climbed the Pearly Gates without incident. Let it be said -- Mt Hood is open for business! Finally!

By 10:30 we were back to the car. Another great day in the mountains!


Looking North at the summit


The boys on top!

Saturday, March 8, 2008

2008 Climb Schedule

1. Olympic Range Retro Climb - Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute, April 26-27

CANCELED DUE TO WEATHER. NEW DATES TBD.



2. Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier, June 19-22

CANCELLED DUE TO WEATHER - REPLACED BY MT. SHASTA (BELOW)

Leaders: Rick Barry, John Petrie

Rick will lead us in another adventure up the "Jewel of The Cascades". We have a full team again this year, which should make for an excellent trip.

As of June 15, things are looking like they could go either way.

Rainer Recon:
Mt. Rainier Weather - NOAA Pinpoint
Mt. Rainier Weather - Recreational Forecast
Paradise, WA Weather - Extended Forecast
High Mountain Meteogram - Elev. 12,330'
Mt Rainier Climbing - Mike Gauthier Blog
Summit Post
Rick's Rainier Prospectus


2a. Mt Shasta, Hotlum-Bolam Ridge, June 20-22

Ok, so we got weathered off Rainier. How about Mt. Shasta? According to the Shasta rangers, the H-B route is in!

Shasta Recon:
Mt. Shasta Weather - NOAA Pinpoint
Mt. Shasta Climbers Guide
Route Information - Summit Post



3. Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys - July 25-27

RESCHEDULED - NEW DATES!

My original co-leader, Matt Vancampen, had to pull off this climb. Some lame excuse -- he's getting married! Congrats to Matt and Andrea! Because their wedding is on the same weekend as our original climb weekend, we're pushing it back to the last weekend of July.

The Fisher Chimney's route on Mt Shuksan is a Northwest classic. I climbed the route back in 2004 and it definitely gets your attention! Every member of this climb team will have important responsibilities. If you're looking to clip in, stare at the butt in front of you and slog up the mountain, you've come to the wrong place! (Prospectus)



Leader: John Petrie

Shuksan Recon:
Mt. Shuksan Weather - NOAA Pinpoint
Mt. Shuksan Recreation NWPS - Climbing Conditions
Summit Post